Best Site:
L. Three way tie. Zakros because it was extensive, Eritrea for Houses II and IV, and the newly updated Palace of Nestor in Pylos.
R. Zakros. The one Minoan palace that was unspoiled.
Worst Site:
We both agree was Poylrinnia. While I do enjoy scavenger hunts, there has to be a payoff, and this wasn't worth it.
Best Museum:
We had originally considered not choosing because we didn't remember that we had visited many museums, which may say something already about the quality of the museums, but having actually visited 5, I am more sanguine about picking winners.
We both agree that Heraklion was our standout for this trip. We spent 5 hours there over two visits to make sure we saw each and every exhibit, and it was worthwhile, if a little repetitive at times because of where the artifacts were discovered and how the displays had been designed. Still, we would go back.
Worst Museum:
Through no fault of its own, Aptera had to take this honor. It's small archaeological site had been looted by Heraklion, and so had nothing left to offer. Still it maintained a job for an older gentleman, and it did have an aerial photograph which showed the back alley to the site.
Weirdest thing we saw
R. Ancient Greek alarm clock at the Kotsanas Museum
L A goat on the A7, the equivalent of Mass Pike.
Best restaurant
It would be hard for a local restaurant to compete with a 1-star Michelin restaurant, so just take as a given that Sense was a culinary experience in a class by itself.
Best souvlaki. Olivia’s Taverna atop Polyrhinnia
Best ffsh. Tsefaki in Chalkida
Thing we brought that we didn’t need
R. Physical book to read. As we made this list, he threatened to read it just so it wasn't a wasted object, but that never happened.
L. Sneakers. This was on my list from the first trip, and I learned for the second, and then I forgot. Maybe I will learn again?
Thing we should have brought.
Both of us: A hat. Totally forgot this trip to represent. Go Sox!
Best cat. The little black one at the version of Perachora who only wanted love and practically crawled into my lap.
Most annoying luxury
BMW i118 5-door sedan. Changed the gear shift interface, and the odometer wasn’t from the onboard computer but from the indicator control. Completely counterintuitive.
Best staff.
L: A tie. At Tylissos, the ticket attendant was obligated to ask me about something I picked up and embarrassed to learn that it was just a snail shell. We talked about the site and she gave me the guide book.
At Aigosthenes, the attendant and I discussed the reconstruction of the tower and I learned that the 9m center beams (3x) were chestnut (kastano) trees, and then discussed how we each prepare and enjoy chestnuts.
Worst Staff.
We both agree, Malia. They didn’t want to work and closed early so they could leave before the site officially closed, although Randall adds that the truly worst staff are the ones who aren’t there when the site has posted hours (online, on-site).
Worst road. Eleftherna. The road which was paved suddenly became unpaved and took at 30° drop. We became concerned that we would be able to get beck up because our vehicle lacked all wheel drive.
Best road. A8 from Athens to the Peleponnese,a second time winner even with tolls!
Best policy recall. Acropolis museum now allows photography—as did every other museum we visited anywhere else in Greece. Finally.
Least likely excuse—"Destroyed by fire" was the universal and vague explanation for why the Greek Dark Ages began. It was a fire of unknown origin and seemed to encompass all of Greece for many years....
Most improved site. Nestor’s palace. Can't beat the elevated walkways for understanding the site.
Worst maintained site. Heraion of Argos. Too many tall weeds.
Most misleading description of a site before we got there. 220 steps into and out of Dikteon Andron. As if that were the relevant criteria of getting to the bottom of the cave!
Best ferry. Tie. Inbound and outbound between Piraeus and Heraklion. We had a VIP cabin for only an extra $50 round trip, and that made all the difference.
Most annoying distraction at an archaeological site. Drones. At some sites they were specifically prohibited (Zakros), but a Delphi and Mykines, they were present, noisy and irritating.
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